[ale] OT need 600-1000W power protection for 3 minutes - cheap

Alex Carver agcarver+ale at acarver.net
Wed Jul 10 20:44:44 EDT 2013


On 7/10/2013 13:51, Ron Frazier (ALE) wrote:
> Hi Scott,
>
> I don't think Alex would mind me throwing my 2 cents in.  I'm roaming
> around right now, but, once I get home, I'll spend a few minutes
> trying to describe these power ratings.  For the moment, realize that
> there are two ratings on these ups's.  The VA or volt-ampere rating
> is the one they rave on about, since it's a bigger number.  However,
> the rating in watts, which you sometimes have to look for, is a lower
> number and it's usually your limiting factor.

They're the same thing. :)

The VA is the limiting number.  The Watts is an approximation made by an 
assumption on the part of the marketing and engineers.  Do all your math 
in VA and ignore Watts.  All your devices should be rated in VA if they 
are properly rated.  No AC device should ever use Watts unless it is 
totally resistive like an incandescent light bulb or a simple electric 
heater.  This is why the Kill-A-Watt actually displays both Watts, VAr, 
VA, and the PF.  Watts aren't the be-all-end-all of AC power.  It's only 
what you are billed for (residential utility power meters only measure 
real power for billing, not apparent or reactive power.)


More information about the Ale mailing list